National parks

Pacific Rim National Park Reserve: storms, surf and old growth

Where
West coast of Vancouver Island, BC
Best months
June to September, or November to February for storms
Time needed
Three days
Nearest airports
Tofino, Nanaimo, Victoria
Wide sandy beach with surf and forested headlands at Pacific Rim
Long Beach, which runs for 16 kilometres and rarely feels crowded. Photo: dvs from Vermont, USA / Wikimedia Commons, CC BY 2.0

Pacific Rim is three separate units on the exposed west coast of Vancouver Island: the Long Beach unit near Tofino, the Broken Group Islands in Barkley Sound, and the West Coast Trail. Most visitors mean the first one. Getting there is a commitment, involving a ferry and a winding mountain road, and it is worth it.

Long Beach and around

  • Long Beach: 16 kilometres of sand, surf and driftwood, and one of the few places in Canada you can learn to surf year round in a thick wetsuit.
  • Rainforest Trail and Schooner Cove: boardwalks through genuine temperate old growth, with trees that were mature before Europeans arrived.
  • Wild Pacific Trail in Ucluelet: technically outside the park and one of the finest coastal walks in the country.
  • Tofino: the base for whale watching, hot springs boat trips and Meares Island's big cedars.
  • Hot Springs Cove: a boat or float plane trip north, then a boardwalk through forest to natural pools that drain into the sea.
Pacific Rim National Park Reserve Open the full map

Storm watching, which is a real thing

From November to February the North Pacific throws serious weather at this coast, and people book specifically to watch it from behind glass with a fire going. Waves of six metres and more are ordinary. Rates are lower, the towns are quiet, and it is one of Canada's most distinctive off-season trips. Bring genuinely waterproof clothing rather than a fashion raincoat.

The West Coast Trail

A 75 kilometre multi-day backpacking route along the coast, originally cut as a rescue path for shipwrecked sailors, with ladders, cable cars and tidal crossings. It runs roughly May to September, requires a permit booked through the Parks Canada reservation service months ahead, and is genuinely demanding. Most parties take six or seven days.

Book it and check it

Common questions

How do you get to Pacific Rim National Park?
Ferry to Vancouver Island, then drive. It is roughly three hours from Nanaimo across the island on Highway 4, a winding road that should not be rushed. Tofino also has a small airport.
Can you surf at Long Beach year round?
Yes. The water sits around 10 degrees Celsius, so a thick wetsuit is mandatory, but the beach breaks work in every season and winter brings the bigger swell.
When is storm watching season in Tofino?
November through February, with the biggest systems typically arriving in December and January.
Do you need a permit for the West Coast Trail?
Yes. Permits are limited, released through the Parks Canada reservation service well ahead of the season, and include a compulsory orientation before you start.

Tip

The drive from Nanaimo takes about three hours on a twisting road with limited passing. Put it in the plan as a genuine half day and you will not be arriving in the dark.