Is Waterton worth visiting if you have been to Banff?

Yes. The prairie-to-mountain transition exists nowhere else in the Rockies, and the crowds are a fraction of Banff's for comparable scenery.

Can you cross into Glacier National Park from Waterton?

Yes, by road at the Chief Mountain crossing in season, or by boat to Goat Haunt. Both require passports and are subject to border hours and closures.

How hard is the Crypt Lake hike?

Hard. It is around 17 kilometres with 700 metres of climbing, plus a ladder, a crawl through a rock tunnel and an exposed ledge with a cable. It also depends on catching the boat both ways.

How many days do you need in Waterton?

Two. One for the townsite, Bear's Hump and the lake cruise, and one for the Akamina and Red Rock parkways or a long hike.

National parks

Waterton Lakes National Park: where the prairie hits the mountains

Where: Southwest Alberta, on the Montana border
Best months: July to September
Time needed: Two days
Nearest airports: Calgary, Lethbridge

Mountains rising directly from flat prairie beside a lake at Waterton — No foothills. The prairie simply ends and the mountains start. Photo: Gorgo / Wikimedia Commons, Public domain

Waterton is where the Rocky Mountains meet the Great Plains with no transition at all: flat prairie one moment, 1,500 metres of rock the next. It joins with Glacier in Montana to form the world's first International Peace Park, and it takes a small fraction of the visitors that Banff does for scenery that is arguably as good.

What to do

Upper Waterton Lake boat cruise: crosses the international border to Goat Haunt in Montana. Bring passports if you intend to land.
Bear's Hump: a short, steep climb from the visitor centre for the definitive view down the lake. An hour well spent.
Red Rock Canyon: bright red argillite rock with a shallow creek running over it, and an easy loop.
Cameron Lake: at the end of the Akamina Parkway, with canoe rental and grizzly habitat on the far slopes.
Crypt Lake: reached by boat, then a ladder, a natural tunnel you crawl through and a cliff ledge. Regularly called one of the world's great hikes and not for the nervous.
Prince of Wales Hotel: worth walking up to for the setting even if you are not staying.

Waterton Lakes National Park Open the full map

Wind, fire and recovery

Waterton is among the windiest places in Alberta, and gusts strong enough to make walking difficult are ordinary rather than remarkable. The 2017 Kenow wildfire burned much of the park's backcountry, and while the townsite was saved, several trails and facilities changed permanently. The regrowth is now a genuinely interesting thing to see. Check current trail status before planning a specific hike.

Book it and check it

Common questions

Is Waterton worth visiting if you have been to Banff?: Yes. The prairie-to-mountain transition exists nowhere else in the Rockies, and the crowds are a fraction of Banff's for comparable scenery.
Can you cross into Glacier National Park from Waterton?: Yes, by road at the Chief Mountain crossing in season, or by boat to Goat Haunt. Both require passports and are subject to border hours and closures.
How hard is the Crypt Lake hike?: Hard. It is around 17 kilometres with 700 metres of climbing, plus a ladder, a crawl through a rock tunnel and an exposed ledge with a cable. It also depends on catching the boat both ways.
How many days do you need in Waterton?: Two. One for the townsite, Bear's Hump and the lake cruise, and one for the Akamina and Red Rock parkways or a long hike.

Tip

Waterton pairs naturally with Glacier across the border into one trip, which is exactly what the peace park designation intended.